Miele W2888 dead

Hi,
I "own" a W2888 Miele washing machine that is dead.
I thought that replacing the TOP233gn chip would bring it back to life.

Alas, no luck.

I know the EFU makes 12v and 5V? (Or is that made in the ELP210)

I have had to throw away the machine because of storage issues but have kept all of the electrical parts.

Do I need to plug on ALL of the electrical parts for testing? (Motor, door lock, drum light...)

Can anyone suggest where else to start looking?
Does anyone have any experience with this board EFU002?

Most of the time when the TOP IC is broken, resistor before the supply of the IC is also broken..

1. Only 230vac supply needed. The output from the secundary circuit can be measured.

2. Not a lot of use if you don't have a machine anymore. Just keeping busy.

3. Is there 310v dc on the TOP (study the datasheet)?

4. If yes. Is there secundary voltage?

5. If no, find the interuption. Usualy a safety resistor although i think there isn't one in this design.
Maybe a safety.

6. Do you mean efu003?

also, if you have bought the TOP ic from a webstore like aliexpress of other china based store the chance is there that you bought a fake component. it happens quite often that they print a other number on a different ic type.

Thank you for the replies.

I have found that there is 310V on one side and nothing on the other side of the transformer.

This is a multi layer board (with a middle sandwiched part), I have limited confidence with this.

The components on the secondary side (Opto, diodes ) seem fine too but I will replace some of the smd electrolytic capacitors. Two have strange readings and they are very inexpensive.

@EricN: Yes, I think it is an EFU003. The plastic case is somewhere in the garage of Miele whiteware. Yes, I am keeping busy as I am not good at resting.

@testman: I did originally have a TOP from Aliexpress, but then bought one from Digikey. It has not made it work.

The resistance between the 12V and ground pins is not as high as I was expecting....

If you are missing on one side of transformer the 310 V, means that transformer is broken.. Measure resistance, but thing really opn circuit..

I have had another look and am lost.

The transformer seems to be ok.

Here is a photo of where I have got to..
1,2,3 are where the high voltage comes in and the transformer seems ok. Pin 2 is not connected.

4 and 5 is where the 12v is made for the control panel. The ground part is not on the reverse but inside the board.
6,7, 8 pins of the transformer are for the different voltages for this board. Pin 6 goes into the board and is connected to the green circles you can see on the board..

I am lost, I might look at the input voltage again. It is not very steady.
310v (approximately) comes in..

I apologise as I am not trained in this area and lack the words to describe what I am seeing.

Thank you again for your tips and input.

quite a mess. I would stop desoldering and test with everything on it.

1. diodes:
-D10, D11 Are they ok? What do you measure there? Ohm or diode range.
-Big diode next to R30 and above c20. It says M20 next to it. That is from the connector but i'm gonna call that diode M2 because i can't zee the right ref.
-D8 D9:

2. resistors:
R30, R29, R52, R178, R42... Value is printed on them

3. capacitors. You can only measure resistence. Check for short circuits.
C26, C35, C41, C20, C31, C29, c32. So just measure ohm for low values. A short circuit on a capacitor.

This is all without(!) power supply. With a resistance or diode meter.

[Bericht gewijzigd door EricN op (10%)]

Now with power:

First you got to have supply on the TOP
https://nl.mouser.com/datasheet/2/328/top232-234-1512691.pdf

The numbers are pin numbers, (datasheet for reference)

2,3,7,8 are ground, minus. (not earth)
Here you got to keep the black meter wire.

On R31 D8 you got to have 310v aprox.
On pin5 also a high voltage but it can be lower (Pulsated)

Pin 1 and 4 are also imporant. What voltage there?