Problème thé big money game

To start - the Varta battery is leaking and has possibly damaged the circuit board

Op 2 november 2019 22:09:25 schreef joopv:
To start - the Varta battery is leaking and has possibly damaged the circuit board

the battery will be made if I can make it work

No, its the Root to your problem(s) fix first!

Op 2 november 2019 22:36:24 schreef Shiptronic:
No, its the Root to your problem(s) fix first!

can it be that when I put money she is mistaken?

The corrosion can make some short circuits, we can't see both sides. So yes...

And the processor can see a problem with the battery maybe..

Try to fix the (cheap) battery, leave under power for some time to charge, and try again.

I had JPM1/2 boards not booting due to a faulty battery they sort of shorted the RAM power supply... so agree, fix that first or at least take it out and clean the mess.

I agree, I've had several machines with problems due to battery corrosion.

First clean off all residue with alcohol (IPA) and/or acetone and an old toothbrush. If necessary use a glass-fiber pen for the badly corroded areas.

Use vinegar (mild acid) to neutralize the battery leakage (bases) on all affected areas. This will prevent it from further eating your board. You might even hear it siss or detect some bubbles when applying the vinegar. This is normal, it tells you how important this step is.
Afterwards, flush the whole PCB with demineralized water. Dry off excess water with a paper towel and leave it to dry further (72h at room temperature, or 12h at 70°C). An extra step before leaving it to dry is flushing it with IPA, it will help to defer the water.

Now start measuring. All tracks in the (wide) vicinity of the battery should be checked for continuity. Schematics will help, especially with multi-layer boards. Semiconductors can be affected as well. Do yourself a favour by blindly replacing all general purpose transistors and diodes. Even if they work now, chances are they will (intermittently) fail in the near future. I've had a transistor in a watchdog circuit that would sometimes reset the whole machine, and with another machine zenerdiodes failing (intermittent shorts, very hard to diagnose) which were 30 centimeters away from the battery! Only started playing up 2 months after initial repair of tracks. So just replace those cheap parts now you're at it.

Op 4 november 2019 09:07:48 schreef Jochem:
Do yourself a favour by blindly replacing all general purpose transistors and diodes.

I disagree that this is a good idea. Someone with extensive repair experience may be reliable enough to replace everything "error free". Not a novice like OP and me. But one diode, transistor reversed or not soldered correctly is likely to result in a difficult to diagnose problem in the system...

You certainly have a point there.

If OP's (soldering/repairing) skills are such that the risk of introducing errors is greater than the chance of solving them, he should stop fixing as soon as the board is working again.

Overall I'm no fan of "randomly" replacing components. It is just that I've had 3 (out of 5, maybe 6) PCB's with battery leakage that after a seemingly successful repair failed on me again after some time (one gambling machine after a week, one gambling machine after a couple of months, and one electric piano after one-and-a-half year). In case of the gamblers, those failures were intermittent and therefore hard to find.

One gambling machine (a Bellfruit Scorpion 4) was resetting at random times (transistor in the watchdog-circuit).
The other gambler (JPM Impact 3 if I recall correctly) was "accepting coins" that were never thrown in (zener on input-lines shorting out intermittently).

The piano had RAM-chips failing. The pins were already corroding at the first repair (open traces on memory-bus), but the chips seemed okay at that time.
For a hobby, I would never replace RAMs on a completely working PCB just as a precaution. So for the piano it's just how it is.

But I would have saved myself a lot of time if I had replaced the few small-signal transistors on that Scorpion MPU the first time I had it on the bench. Mind you that we are only talking about 4 or 5 of them! The rest are power-transistors on the outputs (lamps, relays, etc) and are easy to diagnose when failing.

For the (zener)diodes: I would still suggest to replace all that have visible corrosion (even if it's only a matte look) on their leads. Most MPU's of the "battery-backup-RAM-era" still have many leaded components on them which makes corrosion easy to spot, and parts easy to replace.

Voilà j’ai changer la batterie mais le problème est toujours là
That's I change the battery but the problem is still there

Did you clean it with vinegar like Jochem described a few posts back? That' s an important step.

(And please make sure it is dry before you turn it on again, after cleaning)

yes this was part of a professional